ARRAS

 Arras, another big battlefield with many casualties, not much ground gained and then all lost again later in the war. A common theme on the Western front. The Vimy Ridge memorial is very striking with different types of sculptures. Also interesting that it's next to the pyramids. Vimy was a great Canadian Army success in contrast to the rest of the campaign. Used all 4 Canadian Divisions.

We visited the Commonwealth Graves Commission site where they make all the headstones. They still make thousands a year for existing replacements and new ones, as they are always discovering remains as the excavate for new buildings and during farming. Everything is automated to a standard design, including the fence, gates, doors, digns & other parts.

Arras, itself is a very nice picturesque town, that's the town hall. Most of these towns were destroyed in WW1, so they have mainly been rebuilt in the original styles.

This is the Arras Memorial which contains the only memorial dedicated to the war in the air.

Mouscron town hall, the town where we were staying.

THE SOMME

 Falling behind on the daily blog, took busy during the, back to hotel 7:30, out to find somewhere to eat, up again at 6am - it's relentless. Journey over the channel pretty good, Irish Ferries cheap duty free, 2 litres around £25. Hotel here in Mouscron nice, good room, good breakfast but seems not to have enough staff. The receptionist manages the desk answers the phone, attends the bar and cooks the snack foods! The coach is a huge 6 wheeler and to watch the driver manage the narrow streets in the old Belgian town is really something.

This is the Lochnagar Crater where the sappers dug under the German defences & exploded a massive charge. It didn't work, merely alerted the Germans of the impending attack. 60,000 allied troops killed, wounded or missing on the first day alone.

Somme memorial, Edward Lutyens design, built of Manchester brick.

Royal Newfoundland Infantry memorial. Disastrous first day for them as well over 50% killed, wounded or missing and failed to achieve their objectives. All volunteers, inexperienced and straight into battle. Newfoundland wasn't even part of Canada then. The memorial is manned by young Canadian volunteers who come from all over the country.

The Uster Tower memorial to the Irish contingent.

Three brothers commemorated at the crater.

They are still digging up tons of artefacts, some dangerous as well as coming across human remains. One of the British cemeteries has expanded by 2 acres to bury them

The equipment at the begining of the was very primitive and totally unsuited to trench warfare. The French quickly had to update theirs. The Germans had the most modern kit.

A

HEVER & AWAY

 Well, it's time to get on the move again after a pretty trying run of events. First we are selling up the flat, contracts are flying about and we have been playing removal men, golf and fishing hol - no fish & golf hol, lovely but poor play from me. - funeral of my best mate, then Hever Castle, the family home of Anne Boleyn, and later on Anne of Cleves. Apparently nobody now knows what Ann Boleyn looked like. There are many portraits, many motivated by political ends and descriptions of her that are so conflicting. Don't lose your head over it! The journey to & from Hever was a nightmare beset by traffic problems on the M25. The lovely satnav took us on a cross country route down narrow hilly roads with passing places. All very fine except that we travelled them in the middle of a cycle race. Uphill the bikes went at 0.5mph, downhill they wanted to pass me when I was doing 40mph. Very stressful.

Hever is beautiful.

Today up at 5am for coach trip to WW1 western front. Tomorrow is set for fair weather but Wednesday is wet & stormy and we are in the trenches - very realistic, will we come away with foot? It's now 10:30pm and we are truly kn.......

ARLES

Coming to the end of our trip - packing, surveys etc. Leave for the airport 10am tomorrow. Spent the morning walking around Arles which is a old French town in the carmargue, Provencal area of the country. It was a large Roman city and has many artifacts, including a colesseum and theatre both well preserved. It is also Easter fair here for 3 days, we have French & Spanish bullfighting, the bulls will be run through the streets this weekend, we're not taking part 

Van Gogh spent some time in town & got his inspiration for starry night. He used to hang out in this yellow cafe.

Town hall with the French bullfighters hats. It's not like the Spanish version, they don't kill the bull but have to collect the ribbons attached to various parts of the bull without being gored or trampled.

This is the hospital where VG got his ear patched up and probably some psychiatric help.

Tonights bullfight poster shows the names of both the bulls and the bullfighters. We also have a big funfair in town, shame it's set up just outside our cabin window.

AVIGNON

 You know the story & song - Sur la pont d'Avignon etc ...etc. Apparently all baloney. Built by a shepherd boy on God's orders who hurled a one ton boulder into the Rhone to get people's support for the bridge. Nobody danced on it because the builder, owner charged tolls & you couldn't afford to dance on it. Now a tourist attraction that holds no attraction for me. I wouldn't pay to go on a bridge you can't cross.

The Mistral is still a monster putting white caps on the water - it's dreadful unless you are really wrapped up. 

 

The Catholics back in the 13th century had a problem. The Pope appointed the cardinals & the cardinals voted in the Pope. Corrupt, or what, anyway the French thought so & voted their own Pope who set up court in Avignon, built himself a massive palace & lived happy ever after. Not quite -  after many years of arguments & in fighting they two sides got back together again and continued their corruption to this day. The last 2 French Popes must have done something really bad because they have "disappeared" from the records.

Had Fabien Morreale, finalist of France's Master Chef, on board to cook us a meal - excellent grub, he used to work for Marco Pierre White in Mayfair. He chatted with us about what he's doing now, seemed a really nice guy.

Went out in the evening for a concert, very atmospheric venue.

VIVIERS

 Viv is a beautiful, medieval peaceful town. Narrow cobbled streets and original houses. It is a steady uphill walk to the cathedral, which is the smallest cathedral in France, parish church size, but very nice. The Mistral wind is insane, the days would be absolutely wonderful without it. We were offered kayaking on the Rhone, nuts to go in this wind. I think it was gusting 40mph today - good job the narrow streets offer some shelter.

This swanky house belonged to Noël Albert, a salt entrepreneur and tax collector for the Bishop. He tried to push his luck by plotting a Protestant insurrection so he could make more money. This project didn't go well and he ended up getting chopped into pieces & thrown into the Rhone. Don't mess with the Catholic Bishop!

Nice view from the top.